Drinking D.C.: A Rake’s Progress at the Line Hotel

Editor’s note: Unfortunately, the fabulous Rake’s Progress closed in June 2020, another local business that fell victim to the COVID-19 business disruption. We’re maintaining the review for posterity’s sake.

Readers of this blog know I enjoyed my initial visit to the Line Hotel, when I stopped in at Brothers and Sisters on the first floor.  The thing that I was totally blown away by was the space:  a sprawling lounge inside an old church under a soaring ceiling.  Recently I was able to return and check out A Rake’s Progress – another restaurant in the same space but on the second floor.  Incredibly, the space at Rake’s is even more awe-inspiring.  You see, on my last visit, I forgot that this old church probably had windows:

Golden hour window at A Rake's Progress

That’s one of two such windows on the second floor, caught here at the golden hour, which incidentally is probably the only time you’ll be able to find a reservation here.  But book it anyway and dine in the late afternoon so you can witness the wonderful effect this creates in the bar area.  Also the chandelier:

I thought this was amazing and very much wanted to try to swing from it.  A friend disagreed, pronouncing it ugly.  Love it or hate it, subtle it is not, and you should definitely go see this space for yourself.

Oh, and they also serve drinks and food.  And these are also quite good.  I  I had a chance to sample three cocktails on my visit here.  The first was the Good Luck Road:

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Drinking D.C.: Brothers and Sisters at the Line Hotel

In between martini reviews and recipes, I want to tell you about my recent visit to Brothers and Sisters at the Line Hotel.  This is the latest outpost of Erik Bruner-Yang of Maketto and is currently “in preview.”  The venue is unique in D.C. – a hotel lobby located inside of a grand old church in Adams Morgan.  In fact, the setting is sufficiently unusual that in my approach up the steps I had to check my bearings to assure myself I was in the right place; and I noticed a few other incoming guests do the same.

But what a venue it is.  Once inside, I walked a short distance to the main lounge area, passing a radio studio (?!) on my left.  The lounge is an enormous room, where comfy sofas sit under a soaring ceiling.  To the left and right of this central seating area are high top tables and two bars.  These areas feature spare decorations fusing collegiate-style crests and banners with vaguely Asian-inspired symbols.

I found my way to one of the bars and took a look at the extensive cocktail menu.  On the first page – which is actually the last page (the menus progress from back to front) – is a list of “classic hotel bar cocktails,” including the Bloody Mary, Bellini, and Mary Pickford.  Next is a list of “classic American cocktails,” like the Mint Julep, Manhattan, and Martinez.  Finally, the menu offers ten original cocktails, “inspired by life, love, music, and friends.”  Here’s a sample from the list:

Brothers and Sisters Menu Page 1

Most of the cocktails sport at least one Asian-influenced ingredient, consistent with the thrust of the food menu.  I asked for a recommendation.  The bartender suggested the Ivy Started It as a “more tangy” option that would not be too sweet.  The description was apt, though the tanginess was subtler than I was expecting.  It was not the type of strong sour taste that comes from citrus.  I appreciated the presentation, a gold-rimmed glass and a large, clear ice cube:

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